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Husqvarna TC/TE

 

TC85 2017

TC85

Jetting:
42 pilot, N5HH needle 2nd clip, 120-125 main, AS1.75.  Stock main jet is too lean and pilot/needle setting are too rich.

These are ballpark specs only, for stock or lightly modified bikes. We do not accept any liability if you choose to run these specs.

Head:
Run a TSP head for more power everywhere over stock and less risk of detonation. See SHOP for prices and details. Our heads perform better and cost less than anything else on the market.

Carb:
Carb boring adds extra mid/top end performance. Bore size is critical, going too big will make jetting difficult. See SHOP for prices and details.

Porting:
Dont bother for trail riding or club level MX. For serious racers we can get a lot more mid/top power with correct porting. Beware that most ported cylinders we see are done incorrectly and make very poor power. The old saying less is more applies to this cylinder! See SHOP for prices and details.

Exhaust:
Stock system is fine for trail riding and club level MX. For more serious racers we suggest an HGS, DEP, or FMF. All of these add extra top end power. The stock silencer is absolutely fine for all levels of racing. Adding any of these pipes to a badly ported cylinder will make LESS power everywhere. We have developed a custom pipe which makes more power and torque than any other after-market pipe… it is currently in production and will be available in the SHOP soon.

Ignition:
The SXS CDI will cause a misfire at high rpm when combined with a properly setup head. We can get much better results by using the stock CDI (with an updated timing spec in mm BTDC) combined with our head design. When you buy the head setup we will give you the new timing spec for free the end result is more power everywhere for less cost! Dont bother with aftermarket CDI’s. If you really want a custom CDI the best result will come from fitting a programmable unit and having us dyno tune it. Only bother doing this once you have done all the other usual mods (head, carb, porting, pipe, etc).

Rebuild intervals:
Top end: Every 30 hours for trail riding/club MX. Every 10 hours for A grade MX

Bottom end: Every 100 hours for trail riding or club MX. Every 40 hours for A grade MX

Fuel/Oil:
Run 30:1 for A grade MX and 40:1 for trail riding. Normal 98 unleaded is fine for a stock engine and for our modified engines. “Race” fuels wont add extra power to a good engine setup, but they will be more consistent in quality. They may add extra power to a badly setup engine.

Suggested Mods (in order, first to last):

– Head setup

– Rejet the carb

– TSP ignition setting (we give you this spec free with the head setup

– Different pipe

– Carb bore

– Cylinder porting

– Case mods and reed setup

– Everything else…. ceramic bearings, superfinished transmission, crank inertia, etc… all these mod add LOTS of cost but not much performance.

Notes:

We have done a HUGE amount of testing and development on these engines and have come up with a range of packages to suit novice through to national level riders.

Off the showroom floor these engines can vary a lot from one bike to the next. Although average stock power is around 24.5-25 rwhp on our dyno we often see power on a stock bike varying anywhere from 24-25.5hp at the rear wheel with big differences in midrange power. This means some bikes are much slower than others which can lead to a lot of frustration from riders and parents wondering why they are much slower than the competition.

This is one engine where it is VERY easy to lose power if you dont know what youre doing. We have seen countless bikes come over our dyno with cylinder porting and all the latest bolt on mods making less torque than a stock bike. The old school methods of porting do not work well on this engine and often result in a loss of power. In order to get the most out of this engine it needs to be set up VERY carefully and a range of key changes need to be made.

After hundreds of hours of dyno testing we have developed a range of mods and packages which dramatically improve this engine.

Make sure you change the stock jetting as the main jet is too lean. These engines are tough on bottom ends and it is common for them to fail, especially on a stock bike with stock jetting. Our modified engines have excellent reliability and make much more power everywhere than a stock bike. Dont fall into the trap of buying all the usual expensive bolt on mods (high inertia cranks, ceramic bearings, superfinished transmissions, etc) weve dyno tested lots of bikes with these mods and they hardly make any difference. We can get much better results by doing sensible mods to the stock parts, saving you a ton of money. Of course if you want these parts we can supply them but they only apply to the highest level of racing in our opinion.

 

TC125 2017

TC125/150 and TE125:

125 Jetting:

up to 2015:

2016: 45, N1EF clip 3 or 4, 180-182 main

2017: 40-42.5, stock needle 3rd clip, 480 main jet, AS2.0

These are ballpark specs only. We do not accept any liability if you choose to run these specs, however we have safely used them on a number of bikes.

150 Jetting:

up to 2015:

2016: Specs coming soon…

2017: 40 pilot, 43-74 needle 2nd clip, 490 main jet, AS1.50… this was on a bike that made 46rwhp with head setup and porting, all other parts were stock.

Head:
All years: Run a TSP head for more power everywhere over stock and less risk of detonation. See SHOP for prices and details. Our heads perform better and cost less than anything else on the market.

Carb:
All years: Stock carb size is good for huge power. Boring the carb can be done but it is down the list after head setup, porting, exhaust, etc.  See SHOP for prices and details.

EXC models have a 36mm carb. This can be oval bored for more mid/top.

Porting:
2016 on: Dont bother for trail riding or club level MX. The cylinder casting is excellent and doesn’t need tidying up, however we can change the ports for more mid/top power.  See SHOP for prices and details.

up to 2015: The cylinder casting is rough and needs tidying up. We can either do a basic clean up of the cylinder or we can change the ports for more mid/top power. See SHOP for prices and details.

Exhaust:
All years: Stock system is fine for trail riding and club level MX. We can get a lot more power from these engines by doing advanced porting and head setup only, still keeping the stock exhaust system. For more serious racers we suggest an HGS, DEP, or FMF. All of these add extra top end power. The stock silencer is absolutely fine for all levels of racing. Adding any of these pipes to a badly ported cylinder will make LESS power everywhere. If you are looking at porting the cylinder for extra mid/top then we suggest keeping the stock exhaust until after the mods are done.

Ignition:
All years: Stock CDI is fine.

TE models have a softer ignition curve. Fitting an TC CDI is a good choice for more power everywhere.

Rebuild intervals:
All years:

Top end: Every 40 hours for trail riding/club MX. Every 15 hours for A grade MX

Bottom end: Every 150 hours for trail riding or club MX. Every 60 hours for A grade MX

Fuel/Oil:
Run 30:1 for A grade MX and 40:1 for trail riding. Normal 98 unleaded is fine for a stock engine and for our modified engines. Race fuels wont add extra power to a good engine setup, but they will be more consistent in quality. They may add extra power to a badly setup engine.

Suggested Mods (in order, first to last):

2016-2017 models

– Head setup

– Rejet the carb

– Cylinder porting

– Different pipe

– Carb bore

– Everything else…. ceramic bearings, superfinished transmission, crank inertia, etc… all these mod add LOTS of cost but not much performance. These are only suited to the highest level of racing.

up to 2015 Models

– Head setup

– Rejet the carb

– Cylinder porting

– Different pipe

– Carb bore

– Everything else…. ceramic bearings, superfinished transmission, crank inertia, etc… all these mod add LOTS of cost but not much performance. These are only suited to the highest level of racing.

Notes:
The new 2016 125/150 engine is very well designed and makes huge power for a stock 125. Best mods for 16/17 are head setup (adds ~2hp up top and nice gains through the mid) and some sensible cylinder porting. The stock cylinder casting is very good and so theres nothing to be gained just by cleaning things up. If you want to get even more power you’ll need to do advanced porting (altering port heights/widths) to get improvements to mid/top power.

These engine produce big power for a 125/150 so stay on top of your maintenance and rebuilds to avoid expensive failures. Our modified engines have excellent reliability and make much more power everywhere than a stock bike. These engines respond extremely well to simple work… keep the stock CDI, carb and exhaust and just setup the head and do some mid/top cylinder porting for an extremely competetive bike…

The TC 125 engine up to 2015 is very strong and responds very well to some sensible mods. The overall cylinder design is good but there are lots of casting issues that can be cleaned up to improve power everywhere. Also, careful powervalve setup is critical to getting the most from this engine. The TE model shares the same basic engine but with a softer ignition curve and smaller 36mm carb. This engine hardly changed from ~2000 onwards. They are generally very reliable for a 125 and respond extremely well to simple work although they will never make the same power as the newer models.

 

TE250 2017

TC250 and TE250:

Jetting:

2014-2016 TE250: 40, NECW or N2ZW clip 3, 170 main, AS1,75

2014-2016 TC250: 40, N1EI#3, 168, AS 2.25

2017-on: 32.5, 42-75 needle 3rd clip, 450 main, AS2.0-2.5, TSP modified slide, float height 8.5mm. These specs only work with our head design… together they completely transform the bike. Slide mod is a must if you are going to keep the Mikuni carb. Otherwise swap to a 38mm Keihin (see SHOP).

These are ballpark specs only, for stock or lightly modified bikes. We do not accept any liability if you choose to run these specs.

Head:
Run a TSP head for more power everywhere over stock and less risk of detonation. See SHOP for prices and details. Our heads perform better and cost less than anything else on the market.

Carb:
2008 – 2016: Carb oval boring adds extra mid/top end performance. See SHOP for prices and details.

2017-: Stock carb size is fine.

Porting:
All years: Dont bother for trail riding. For racers we can get a lot more mid/top power with correct porting. See SHOP for prices and details.

Exhaust:
All years: Stock system is fine for trail riding and most forms of offroad racing. For more serious racers we suggest an HGS, DEP, or FMF. All of these add extra top end power. The stock silencer is absolutely fine for all levels of racing. If you want more power spend your money on head setup first and rejetting first… its much better value for money.

Ignition:
The stock ignition curve is a bit soft. Our ignition mod adds ignition advance across the board and gives more power everywhere (suitable for electric start models only).

Rebuild intervals:
Top end: Every 80 hours for trail riding. Every 60-70 hours for offroad racing.

Bottom end: Every 300-400 hours for trail riding. Around 200 hours for offroad racing

NOTE: it is very common to get dust through these engines even if you are careful with your filters. This can reduce engine life dramatically… we see lots of bikes with less than 50-100 hours needing full rebuilds.

Fuel/Oil:
Run 40:1 or 50:1. Normal 98 unleaded is fine for a stock engine and for our modified engines.

Suggested Mods (in order, first to last):

– Head setup (adds more power everywhere, especially bottom/mid)

– Rejet the carb

– TSP ignition mod (adds more power everywhere, especially bottom/mid)

– Carb oval bore (2008-2016 models only)

– New V Force reed cage. These are slightly better in design than the stock reeds but power difference is only small.

– Cylinder porting (adds mid/top)

You can do all these mods at once or add one at a time.

Notes:

2017 models
The new 250/300 engine is very well designed and makes decent power, however there are some small issues with this engine that have a huge impact on how it runs. The biggest complaint we get is that low end power is very spluttery and weak and fuel economy is very bad. Its fairly common for stock bikes to get less than 60kms out of a tank. The 2 key areas that need addressing are the head (stock squish clearance is ridiculous, around 2mm), and the carb. Stock jetting is way off and none of the needles that are supplied in the spares kit are close to being correct.

We suggest setting up the head properly and rejetting the Mikuni as a minimum for this bike. This makes a huge difference to how the bike runs and dramatically improves low/mid power as well as fuel economy. Opening up the airbox will add extra hp up top but do this at your own risk as these bikes are still very prone to taking in dust. Our ignition mod is simple and cheap and adds a noticable amount of power from bottom to top with no risk to reliability.

Busting some 2017 myths…
There is a HUGE amount of rubbish going around the net regarding the 2017s. Unfortunately a lot of it is aimed at selling unnecessary products to uneducated riders so do yourself a favour and get some advice from someone who knows their stuff before buying some of these expensive “instant fix” products.
The stock reeds are absolutely fine, having a small air gap between the petal and the seat in still air has almost no bearing on what the petal will be doing when its opening and closing 100 times a second whilst covered in a film of oil. Dont replace the stock carbon fibre petals with the 1970’s tech fibreglass ones that are being sold on the net and advertised on youtube… they have a completely incorrect resonant frequency for this engine and are a big backwards step.
If you want to swap carbs on this bike then our suggestions is to consider fitting a short body Keihin PWK from an earlier model KTM125SX or a YZ250 (38mm). This makes a massive difference to part throttle running. There’s loads of accurate info about jetting these carbs to suit these bikes on the net and it will be a quick and easy install for most people. Fitting other aftermarket carbs that are marketed as “bolt on and forget” and “no need to adjust for temp/elevation” are usually not so straight forward in our experience… We have extensively dyno tested these carbs and have run them on our own bikes in the past. Take it from us… ALL carbs need proper setting up and constant adjustment for changing conditions, there is no way around this.
If you want the best value for money results then keep the stock reeds, setup the head and either jet the stock carb as best you can or fit a PWK. Anything else will simply cost you more.

Up to 2016 Models
For the TC models we strongly suggest setting up the head, plus a carb oval bore. This combination gives nice gains throughout the rev range and up top without sacrificing reliability. Careful jetting and powervalve setup make a big difference. If you really want maximum mid-top power then advanced porting will give you bucket loads of arm pulling power!

For the TE models we suggest setting up the head at a minimum. We do a package of mods which is very popular and completely transforms the 250 engine… these mods include head setup, ignition mod and a carb oval bore. This is the best value setup you will find anywhere for this engine and makes it pull way harder from idle all the way to redline without sacrificing reliability.

TE250 2017

TE300:

Jetting:

2014-2016: 38, NECW clip 3, 168 main, AS1,75

2017-on: 30, 42-75 needle 3rd clip, 450 main, AS2.0-2.5, TSP modified slide, float height 8.5mm. These specs only work with our head design… together they completely transform the bike. Slide mod is a must if you are going to keep the Mikuni carb. Otherwise swap to a 38mm Keihin (see SHOP).

These are ballpark specs only, for stock or lightly modified bikes. We do not accept any liability if you choose to run these specs.

Head:
Run a TSP head for more power everywhere over stock and less risk of detonation. See SHOP for prices and details. Our heads perform better and cost less than anything else on the market.

Carb:
2008 – 2016: Carb oval boring adds extra mid/top end performance. See SHOP for prices and details.

2017-: Stock carb size is fine.

Porting:
All years: Dont bother for trail riding. For racers we can get a lot more mid/top power with correct porting. See SHOP for prices and details.

Exhaust:
All years: Stock system is fine for trail riding and most forms of offroad racing. For more serious racers we suggest an HGS, DEP, or FMF. All of these add extra top end power. The stock silencer is absolutely fine for all levels of racing. If you want more power spend your money on head setup first and rejetting first… its much better value for money.

Ignition:
The stock ignition curve is a bit soft. Our ignition mod adds ignition advance across the board and gives more power everywhere (suitable for electric start models only).

Rebuild intervals:
Top end: Every 80 hours for trail riding. Every 60-70 hours for offroad racing.

Bottom end: Every 300-400 hours for trail riding. Around 200 hours for offroad racing

NOTE: it is very common to get dust through these engines even if you are careful with your filters. This can reduce engine life dramatically… we see lots of bikes with less than 50-100 hours needing full rebuilds.

Fuel/Oil:
Run 40:1 or 50:1. Normal 98 unleaded is fine for a stock engine and for our modified engines.

Suggested Mods (in order, first to last):

– Head setup (adds more power everywhere, especially bottom/mid)

– Rejet the carb

– TSP ignition mod (adds more power everywhere, especially bottom/mid)

– Carb oval bore (2008-2016 models only)

– New V Force reed cage. These are slightly better in design than the stock reeds but power difference is only small.

– Cylinder porting (adds mid/top)

You can do all these mods at once or add one at a time.

Notes:

2017 models
The new 250/300 engine is very well designed and makes decent power, however there are some small issues with this engine that have a huge impact on how it runs. The biggest complaint we get is that low end power is very spluttery and weak and fuel economy is very bad. Its fairly common for stock bikes to get less than 60kms out of a tank. The 2 key areas that need addressing are the head (stock squish clearance is ridiculous, around 2mm), and the carb. Stock jetting is way off and none of the needles that are supplied in the spares kit are close to being correct.

We suggest setting up the head properly and rejetting the Mikuni as a minimum for this bike. This makes a huge difference to how the bike runs and dramatically improves low/mid power as well as fuel economy. Opening up the airbox will add extra hp up top but do this at your own risk as these bikes are still very prone to taking in dust. Our ignition mod is simple and cheap and adds a noticable amount of power from bottom to top with no risk to reliability.

Busting some 2017 myths…
There is a HUGE amount of rubbish going around the net regarding the 2017s. Unfortunately a lot of it is aimed at selling unnecessary products to uneducated riders so do yourself a favour and get some advice from someone who knows their stuff before buying some of these expensive “instant fix” products.
The stock reeds are absolutely fine, having a small air gap between the petal and the seat in still air has almost no bearing on what the petal will be doing when its opening and closing 100 times a second whilst covered in a film of oil. Dont replace the stock carbon fibre petals with the 1970’s tech fibreglass ones that are being sold on the net and advertised on youtube… they have a completely incorrect resonant frequency for this engine and are a big backwards step.
If you want to swap carbs on this bike then our suggestions is to consider fitting a short body Keihin PWK from an earlier model KTM125SX or a YZ250 (38mm). This makes a massive difference to part throttle running. There’s loads of accurate info about jetting these carbs to suit these bikes on the net and it will be a quick and easy install for most people. Fitting other aftermarket carbs that are marketed as “bolt on and forget” and “no need to adjust for temp/elevation” are usually not so straight forward in our experience… We have extensively dyno tested these carbs and have run them on our own bikes in the past. Take it from us… ALL carbs need proper setting up and constant adjustment for changing conditions, there is no way around this.
If you want the best value for money results then keep the stock reeds, setup the head and either jet the stock carb as best you can or fit a PWK. Anything else will simply cost you more.

Up to 2016 Model
For the TE models we suggest setting up the head at a minimum. We do a package of mods which is very popular and completely transforms the 300 engine… these mods include head setup, ignition mod and a carb oval bore. This is the best value setup you will find anywhere for this engine and makes it pull way harder from idle all the way to redline without sacrificing reliability.